Sai Kung is a fishy, waterside town on the far east of the New Territories, surrounded by lush countryside it is rightly referred to as Hong Kong’s garden. The waterfront makes a pleasant promenade with seafood restaurants, piers and myriad marine activities: fisher folk hawking a day’s catch, pleasure cruise departures and the odd dragon boat flurry. At weekends locals descend in droves to enjoy island hopping around the scenic archipelago, trips can be organised via one of several grittily strident ladies who effortlessly hook their catch (you!) should interest arise; there’s no English but a signboard shows the route and some price bargaining may be required. The old part of the town with its tiny, labyrinthine alleys, shops and temples is certainly evocative of an ancient fishing village and with it comes a pleasantly pervasive seaside odour.